Written by Alex Federici
Haute Horlogerie meets Rugby and Maori Culture: The story of the rare All Blacks Bulgari Daniel Roth
One of the highlights of our upcoming Collectible Watches Auction, to be held on May 23, 2026, is undoubtedly the Bulgari & Daniel Roth All Blacks Endurer Special Edition. This magnificent timepiece embodies the history of three distinct worlds: Bulgari, Daniel Roth, and the All Blacks.
To provide some context, let us briefly introduce these three icons:
Bulgari: An Italian company founded in 1884, Bulgari is a global leader in the luxury sector, spanning jewelry, watchmaking, fragrances, leather goods, and high-end hospitality. Since 2011, it has been part of the French LVMH group.
Daniel Roth: Born in 1945, Daniel Roth is a renowned independent watchmaker, a pioneer of haute horlogerie, and the founder of his namesake brand in 1988. Famous for his signature double-ellipse case and for revitalizing the tourbillon, Roth worked for Breguet before establishing his own maison. The brand was acquired by Bulgari in 2000 and subsequently integrated into the LVMH group.
All Blacks: This refers to the New Zealand National Rugby Union Team; the players are universally known as the All Blacks, iconic symbols of the sport.
2026 Collectible Watches Auction, Lot 89, Bulgari & Daniel Roth All Blacks Endurer “Special Edition”
The birth of the Bulgari Daniel Roth Endurer “All Blacks
The union of these three icons gave life to the Bulgari Daniel Roth Endurer Chronosprint “All Blacks” Special Edition (Reference BRE56SBCHS/AB). Indeed, as mentioned above, Bulgari acquired Daniel Roth in 2000 and, in partnership with the New Zealand National Rugby Team, produced this extraordinary timepiece.
Technical features
Movement: The technical base is a Girard-Perregaux movement, extensively modified by Roth.
It features the in-house self-winding Caliber DR1306, with a power reserve of approximately 45 hours and a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour. The DR1306 movement is a simplified yet brilliant complication designed by Daniel Roth. Unlike traditional chronographs, this mechanism starts automatically when the watch is running; it measures only hours and minutes (via the sub-dial at 6 o’clock) and lacks the standard “Start/Stop” pushers. Instead, it features a single reset button that returns the hands to zero for an instantaneous restart. It is specifically designed to time long-duration events without interruption (such as a rugby match).
Functions: “Chronosprint” chronograph (measuring hours and minutes on a single auxiliary dial) and a Big Date window at 12 o’clock.
Case: Daniel Roth’s signature elliptical design in Staybrite® steel with a black DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon) treatment, ensuring high resistance to scratches and corrosion.
Dimensions: Case diameter of approximately 50 mm.
Aesthetic Details: The dial features an engraved pattern inspired by Maori tattoos (“Koru”), while the semi-transparent sapphire crystal caseback displays the All Blacks logo.
Water Resistance: Up to 100 meters (10 ATM).
Original Retail Price: €13,600
Starting Bid: €5,000
The story of Bulgari & Daniel Roth All Blacks Endurer “Special Edition”
The Bulgari & Daniel Roth All Blacks Endurer “Special Edition” was created in 2011 to celebrate the centenary of the All Blacks (1905–2005, in reference to the official partnership signed in 2011) and their participation in the Rugby World Cup held in New Zealand.
Bulgari chose the Daniel Roth line because it perfectly embodied the values of endurance, precision, and strength. The design is not merely aesthetic but deeply rooted in culture. The dial features an engraved pattern replicating the Koru (a traditional Maori tattoo motif symbolizing growth, strength, and rebirth), while the use of Staybrite steel with a black DLC treatment serves as a direct tribute to the “All Black” uniform. Finally, the caseback features a smoked sapphire crystal bearing the Silver Fern logo, the iconic symbol of the New Zealand national team.
A model symbolizing the Daniel Roth-Bulgari transition
Starting with this timepiece, Bulgari began moving the “Daniel Roth” name from the dial to the caseback (or removing it altogether), transforming it from an independent brand into an elite Bulgari collection. It was one of the Maison’s first “luxury sports” models to embrace such an aggressive and technical aesthetic.
A timepiece that should be a staple in any haute horlogerie collection. Beyond marking the transitional era before the Daniel Roth brand was fully absorbed by Bulgari, it features Maori-style dial decorations—a rare find in the world of high-end watchmaking. Last but not least, it is worth noting that at its 2011 launch, the retail price was € 13,600. Today, it is available in our Collectible Watches Auction with a starting bid of € 5,000—unquestionably an opportunity not to be missed!
See also:
- Browse the catalogue of 2026 Collectible Watches Auction
- Read the blog post From the caves to the collections: the story of the Rolex Explorer II “Freccione” 1655
- Read the blog post The golden Bolognino of Nicholas V