Patek Philippe Nautilus: history and origin of this wonderful timepiece

The Patek Philippe Nautilus, a timeless “classic” from the Swiss maison, which will be featured in our Christmas Auction, is the epitome of luxury sports watches. Over the years, it has been produced in various versions, with both significant and subtle updates, maintaining its status as the benchmark timepiece for high society.

The Patek Nautilus was introduced in 1976 with its first reference, the steel 3700, also known as the Jumbo due to its dimensions: the case measured 42mm in diameter and was constructed in two parts, offering water resistance up to 60 meters.

The Nautilus dial featured a raised horizontal pattern with baton indexes, stick hands, and a date window at 3 o’clock. Over time, the bracelet evolved while keeping the same reference. Early models featured a “wide bracelet,” while later versions, with a more tapered design, are commonly referred to as “narrow bracelet” (ref. 3700/11), consisting of three rows of links: the outer ones satin-finished and the central one polished. Inside the folding clasp, one can find versions both with and without the cursive “Nautilus” engraving, though all are marked with the manufacturer’s logos.

As for the movement, this reference housed an automatic movement (with a thickness of 3.15 mm and no seconds hand) with a caliber 28-255 featuring a central rotor, finished to meet the Geneva Seal standards.

The Patek Philippe Nautilus was produced in steel, steel and gold, yellow gold, and a very limited number of pieces in white gold or platinum. It was sold with a distinctive cork box, reflecting the characteristic 1970s aesthetic.

Patek Philippe Nautilus reference 3800

In 1981, the Nautilus family expanded with the introduction of the model featured in our Christmas Auction: reference 3800.

This version, notably smaller (37.5 mm in diameter), was equipped with an automatic movement, the PP 335 SC caliber until 1992, later replaced by the 330 SC. Unlike its predecessor, the 3800 featured a central seconds hand. It was offered in four versions: steel, gold, steel/gold, and platinum.

The Patek Nautilus 3800 was the only model to remain in production after the 3700 was discontinued, and throughout its production run (1981–2006), the manufacturer made several updates to all components of the watch.

Over the years, numerous variations were created, including women’s models in various precious and non-precious metals and sizes, always striving to stay “in step with the times,” a goal the Patek Nautilus has fully achieved.

Christmas Auction, Lot 19, Patek Philippe Nautilus, referenza 3800.

Patek Philippe Nautilus: the references

Although the Nautilus catalog in January 2023 featured a wide range of models, it is clear that certain references have made a more significant or evident impact on historical periods compared to others. Among them, the reference 3800 stands out: it remained in production for an impressive 25 years, maintaining a diameter slightly smaller than the current standard of 40 mm. This positioned it as a true icon of charm and elegant proportions, destined to endure through time.

Patek Nautilus – Current Catalog

Patek Nautilus 5811/1G-001: € 70.350
Patek Nautilus 5712G-001: € 53.660
Patek Nautilus 5712R-001: € 53.660
Patek Nautilus 5712/1A-001: € 49.130
Patek Nautilus 5712/1R-001: € 83.470
Patek Nautilus 5726A-001: € 49.490
Patek Nautilus 5726/1A-001: € 54.850
Patek Nautilus 5980R-001: € 73.930
Patek Nautilus 5980/1AR-001: € 76.310
Patek Nautilus 5980/1R-001: € 106.120
Patek Nautilus 5990/1A-011: € 69.160
Patek Nautilus 5990/1R-001: € 115.660
Patek Nautilus 5740/1G-001: € 146.670

See also:

• Browse the catalogue of Christmas Auction
• Have a look at Wristwatches and Pocket Watches Department