Written by Alex Federici
The Birth of the Rolex Explorer II “Freccione”
We dedicate today’s article to one of the most beloved vintage watches among fine watchmaking collectors: the Rolex Explorer II, also known as the “Freccione”, reference 1655, featured in our Auction 9 – Salmoiraghi Collection, lot 15. This timepiece was introduced by the maison in 1971, joining—without replacing—the previous Explorer model, reference 1016.
Thanks to the different versions in which it was produced (minor graphical updates to the dial and bezel), this watch has become a true collector’s item, highly sought after by enthusiasts.
At the time of its introduction, the Explorer II did not represent a status symbol as it does today, but rather a professional instrument designed for intensive use, particularly in the field of speleology.
Auction 9 – Salmoiraghi Collection, Lot 15, ROLEX Explorer II “FRECCIONE”, Reference 1655, dial
Technical Features
The Explorer II was a completely new watch compared to the Explorer models produced up to that point, both in terms of aesthetics and technical features.
The concept was partly derived from Rolex’s elder sibling, the GMT-Master, from which it borrowed the movement with date and an additional 24-hour hand, but with a different purpose. Instead of indicating a second time zone, this function helped distinguish day from night—an essential need for those spending long periods in environments without natural light, such as caves.
Made exclusively in stainless steel, the Rolex Explorer II ref. 1655 featured a robust case designed to withstand the most extreme conditions. The fixed bezel, engraved with 24-hour markings, alternated Arabic numerals with black enamel baton indexes. The matte black dial, with white graphics and tritium-filled geometric markers, ensured excellent legibility. The plexiglass crystal was fitted with a Cyclops lens over the date window at 3 o’clock. The bracelet was the stainless steel Oyster.
The most distinctive element, however, was the oversized and highly visible orange 24-hour hand: hence the famous nickname “Freccione” (“big arrow”), given by collectors. Thanks to this feature, it was easy to clearly tell whether the watch was indicating daytime or nighttime hours.
Auction 9 – Salmoiraghi Collection, Lot 15, ROLEX Explorer II “FRECCIONE”, Reference 1655, dial
The dial featured a bold and unusual design, characteristics that earned it the nickname “Disco Dial” for its resemblance to the illuminated dance floors of 1970s nightclubs.
Prestigious Ambassadors for the Rolex Explorer II ref. 1655 “Freccione”
Although highly appreciated today, the “Freccione” initially struggled to establish itself on the market, recording only limited sales. To boost its image, Rolex turned to famous ambassadors, including Steve McQueen: although there is no evidence that the actor ever actually wore it, the association contributed to spreading the nickname “Rolex Steve McQueen” among collectors.
In 1980, Rolex supplied an Explorer II ref. 1655 to explorer Oliver Shepard, who took part in the Transglobe Expedition, a journey that crossed both poles of the Earth. At his request, the watch was fitted with the dial and hands of the GMT-Master ref. 1675, in order to improve legibility under extreme conditions.
Despite these initiatives, reference 1655 did not achieve the desired success and, in 1985, it was replaced by the new Explorer II reference 16550.
Auction 9 – Salmoiraghi Collection, Lot 15, ROLEX Explorer II “FRECCIONE”, Reference 1655
Evolution and Collectible Variants
During the 15 years of production of ref. 1655, Rolex introduced numerous variations, now highly sought after by collectors, particularly regarding dials and bezels. The dials are generally classified into five main types (produced by Stern), along with two “service” variants (produced by Beyeler), distributed as replacements in the following decades. The bezels, on the other hand, are divided into four main categories: MK1, MK2, MK3, and MK4.
The Explorer II 16550: A Step Toward Modernity
Launched in 1985, ref. 16550 marked a decisive step toward modernity. While retaining the stainless steel case, it introduced several innovations: the dial was available in two color variations, white and black, with white gold-surrounded hour markers and Mercedes hands, similar to those of the GMT-Master. The fixed bezel featured a redesigned, more squared font, with alternating numerals and triangular markers.
The plexiglass crystal was replaced by sapphire, still fitted with the Cyclops lens over the date. The new caliber 3085 movement offered a quickset date function and an independently adjustable 24-hour hand. A manufacturing flaw in the early white dials caused them to age into a creamy ivory tone, now considered highly attractive and known among collectors as the “cream dial” Explorer II.
The ref. 16550 remained in production until 1988, when it was replaced by ref. 16570 with caliber 3185 (and later 3186), followed by the modern references 216570 and 226570, now well known to contemporary enthusiasts.
See also:
- The Auction 9 – Salmoiraghi Collection catalogue
- The press release of Auction 9 – Salmoiraghi Collection catalogue
- The blog article “Rolex Milgauss“